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Documentando el Cementerio de la Recoleta en Buenos Aires desde el 2007
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441. la nación, 16 ene 2010
30 Oct 2011

La historia escondida en las tumbas de Recoleta

Los fines de semana cientos de turistas visitan la necrópolis para ver donde descansan los restos de diversas figuras de la historia argentina

La Nación, 16 enero 2010, Pablo De Rosa Barlaro

Sábado, media mañana. Los turistas hacen fila. Están ansiosos porque empiece la visita guiada. Una recorrida por pasillos, bóvedas y tumbas. Un paseo por la historia argentina a través del cementerio de Recoleta.

La escena se repite todas las semanas. Sólo en 2008 unos 24.000 turistas visitaron la necrópolis más antigua de la ciudad de Buenos Aires, según estadísticas oficiales del gobierno porteño.

¿Hay una fascinación por la muerte? La escritora María Rosa Lojo sostuvo: “Sin duda, la muerte es el gran misterio de nuestras vidas. Estas figuras que están en las lápidas, en las tumbas nos representan a nosotros. Son nuestro pasado pero también nuestro futuro”.

El cementerio de Recoleta fue la primera necrópolis pública de la ciudad de Buenos Aires. Fue inaugurado con el nombre de Cementerio del Norte el 17 de noviembre de 1822. Un día después, las primeras personas enterradas fueron el niño esclavo Juan Benito y una mujer llamada María Dolores Maciel.

Después se construyeron los cementerios de Flores, en 1867 y el de Chacarita, en 1871.

Las visitas guiadas del gobierno porteño se arman por grupos de entre 25 y 30 personas, todo depende del día y del horario. Además todas las semanas hay paseos organizados para las escuelas.

Según la página web del gobierno porteño los planos del cementerio fueron confeccionados por el ingeniero Próspero Catelin, reservándose el gobierno algunas parcelas para personalidades destacadas en la formación del estado que le confirió su carácter histórico.

Pero qué es lo que atrae a turistas argentinos y extranjeros. ¿Qué buscan los visitantes del cementerio que recorren las tumbas y bóvedas?

“En el cementerio está la historia fundacional de la patria, la historia inicial”, explicó el director de la necrópolis, Carlos Francavilla.

En las tumbas y bóvedas del cementerio descansan los restos de figuras de la historia de la Argentina como Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, Bartolomé Mitre, Hipólito Irigoyen, Juan Manuel de Rosas, Remedios de Escalada de San Martín, Eva Duarte de Perón y Raúl Alfonsín, cuya inhumación, el 2 de abril pasado, fue presenciada por una multitud de personas, que conmovidas, llenaron el cementerio.

No sólo hay personalidades de la política sepultados en el cementerio de Recoleta, sino también el premio Nobel Luis Federico Leloir, el boxeador Luis Angel [Firpo], los escritores José Hernández, Miguel Cané y Marcos Sastre. También hay una bóveda donde descansan los restos de María Marta García Belsunce, asesinada en octubre de 2002 en su casa del country Carmel.

Un video de YouTube se encontró acá pero no está más en el servidor.

Hay una bóveda que atrae como un imán a los turistas argentinos y extranjeros, sobre todo las personas que vienen desde Europa. Es la bóveda de Evita.

“El turista tiene particular interés por la bóveda de Evita. Es un personaje muy conocido internacionalmente, muy popular. Hay turistas que saben muchísimos detalles de la vida de Eva Duarte, sobre todo por la ópera”, sostuvo Francavilla.

La superficie actual es de 5,5 hectáreas y sus límites son las calles Junín, Quintana, Vicente López y Azcuénaga. Las visitas no sólo son atraídas por los personajes que están en las tumbas. El lugar es una atracción por su arquitectónica, plasmada en distintos estilos escultóricos. Unas 70 bóvedas fueron declaradas Monumento Histórico Nacional.

“Las manifestaciones a nivel escultórico que tiene cementerio llama la atención de los turistas, que lo comparan con otras necrópolis importantes del mundo como el cementerio de Père-Lachaise, en París o la necrópolis italiana de Staglieno, en Génova”, agregó Francavilla.

En la actualidad, según información oficial, en el cementerio de Recoleta no hay parcela disponible. Las bóvedas fueron concedidas a perpetuidad.

En el Ministerio de Espacio Público porteño dijeron: “En este momento se está en proceso de desocupar una galería de nichos que fueron arrendados por 95 años. Ya se realizaron todos los procedimientos administrativos para la desocupación de aquellos que están abandonados o que no son reclamados. De esta forma, la ciudad volverá a ofrecer el servicio de nichos en su cementerio más antiguo”.

Por año, según el cuadro tarifario, por mantenimiento de las bóvedas y por metro cuadrado se debe abonar 48 pesos. Ampliación de bóvedas, rectificación obligatoria del trazado, adquisición de sobrantes baldíos o concesiones de subsuelo bajo calle o acera, rigen los siguientes precios por metro cuadrado y por año, 84 pesos.

Termina el paseo. Después de recorrer pasillos, tumbas y bóvedas, los turistas están satisfechos. Piensan que saben más sobre los personas que los cautivaron.

La Nación, 16 enero 2010, mapa del cementerio

Producción periodística: Soledad Aznarez, Pablo Cairo, Verónica Chiaravalli, Pablo De Rosa Barlaro, Gabriel Di Nicola y Jorge Rosales

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A pesar de que no dice nada nuevo, no se puede perdonar que la nota tiene errores. Sobre todo con tanta gente trabajando en la producción. El apellido de Firpo no aparece (!) y el cementerio en Flores no fue el segundo construido para la ciudad… Flores se incorporó en la ciudad recién en el año 1888, después de abrir el cementerio de la Chacarita.

Primera foto (1 de 10) es de Pablo De Rosa Barlaro. Negritas e itálicas no son originales.

Posted in En la prensa | No responses »
440. lorenzo finocchio
23 Oct 2011

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Lorenzo Finocchio

Only a few examples of poetry exist in Recoleta Cemetery. Mostly confined to plaques like that of Angélica Blanco Granada & Antonio Zwingen, this engraving surprises because it has been built into the wall of the family vault. Very unique.

A closer look & translation, which unfortunately does not rhyme in English as it does in Spanish:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Lorenzo Finocchio

Aquí Yacen Los Restos De La Finada Dª Francisca Viergi De Finocchio
Falleció el 20 de junio de 1858, de 56 años de edad
Q.G.P.E (que goce de paz eterna)

Aquí bajo esta helada losa
regada con mi llanto cada día
alberganse los restos de una esposa
que mi paz y mi calma constituía

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Here Lie The Remains Of The Late Francisca Viergi De Finocchio
Who passed away on June 20, 1858 at the age of 56
May she enjoy eternal peace

Here, underneath this cold slab
each day showered with my tears,
are entombed the remains of a wife
who granted me such peace & calm

Posted in Literati | 9 responses »
439. cementerio de san josé de flores
16 Oct 2011

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, location

Like Recoleta Cemetery, the Cementerio de San José de Flores took its name from the adjacent church (originally located between Avenida Rivadavia & Ramón Falcón). What better place to ensure a divine afterlife? In 1807, Flores had yet to be incorporated into the city limits of BA so the town’s early residents were buried there. Moved in 1830 & again in 1867, the cemetery was enlarged to 27 hectares in 1979. Not as big as Chacarita Cemetery but certainly big enough.

The first thing that struck me about this cemetery was its location… up on a hilltop. There are so few hills in Buenos Aires that you notice when you’re on top of a big one. Only a small portion of the site had mausoleums so it was really nonstop graves as far as the eye could see.

One modern section is similar to the underground catacombs of Chacarita, but I spent most of my time checking out the architecture. The fancy entrance gate from 1868 by Juan Buschiazzo (same architect who constructed the entrance of Recoleta Cemetery) & the mausoleum section seem out of place after the cemetery’s expansion, now completely surrounded by graves. At least the gate was not demolished:

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

Something else that’s a bit out of place because no doubt it has been moved from its original location is the Flores family tomb. They founded the town & were its most illustrious residents. At least they have a great view now:

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

An interesting detail here that isn’t found as often in Chacarita or Recoleta is personal references. These nameplates can be found above the main door where the family name would be:

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

There were some collective mausoleums as in Chacarita. The second one is for the Navy… complete with steamship design:

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

My personal favorite was the monster concrete crosses on the mausoleum for staff of the Obras Sanatarias de la Nación:

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

A few more for the Instituto del Buen Pastor, a group of monks in a small Neogothic castle & a little late Art Nouveau:

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

There wasn’t much in the way of sculpture, but the following piece stood out:

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

Finally, a few tombstones were mixed in with the mausoleums. I know this is difficult to read but it’s for an immigrant from the Lower Pyrenees in France who died in 1871. The inscription is touching:

Cementerio de San José de Flores, Buenos Aires, Flores

So if you’re in the neighborhood for Korean food, pop in for quick walk around & enjoy the view. You’ll likely be the only one wandering around the mausoleums.

Originally published on 19 Sep 2007 in my other blog, Line of Sight.

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Other Buenos Aires cemeteries: Cementerio del Sur • Chacarita • San José de Flores • Cementerio de los Disidentes • Cementerio Británico • Cementerio Alemán

Posted in Historia | 2 responses »
438. cementerio de la chacarita
09 Oct 2011

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires, location

Much like the creation of Recoleta Cemetery, the Cementerio de la Chacarita owes its location to land confiscated from a religious order. In this case it was the Jesuits–not the Recoletos–who were expelled in 1767. The area took its name from a diminutive form of the word “chacra” or “chácara,” meaning small farm or plantation, & refers to its original use.

City officials had no urgent need to occupy the land until the devastating 1871 yellow fever outbreak. Recoleta prohibited the burial of victims of any epidemic, while the smaller Cementerio del Sur could not cope with the estimated 14,000 dead. Drastic measures needed to be taken & the massive, 70-block Chacarita Cemetery was born. Trolley lines nearby helped handle increased traffic.

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires, entrance gate

Due to its size, the creation of of a cemetery in Chacarita made its predecessor in Recoleta more exclusive. To this day, Chacarita is for burials of the common man while Recoleta is typically for those who are better off. But that isn’t to say that there’s nothing elegant about Chacarita… quite the contrary.

Split into many sectors, decorative vaults congregate around the main entrance while niches are off to the side & underground in the center. Scattered around are collective mausoleums, either based on profession (burial included as part of union dues) or by association membership (sports clubs or beneficiary societies, for example). Take note: visiting or photographing these mausoleums is prohibited by non-members even if doors are open… caretakers are fairly zealous about that.

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires, niches

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires, Centro Gallego

A large portion of the cemetery is occupied by plots which are constantly recycled. Social benefits in Argentina include free burial… but not forever. If family does not pay for basic maintenance past a certain number of years, the casket is removed, cremated & the ashes are scattered at the ossuary along the eastern wall. Hundreds of plaques adorn this spot, making it one of the most moving in the cemetery.

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires, osuario

One way of looking at Chacarita is that its eclectic architectural mix is a response by the middle class to emulate the over-the-top styles in Recoleta… often with interesting results:

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires, Familia Cottini

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires, Familia Bozzini-Morini, Art Deco

Are there famous people buried inside the confines of Chacarita Cemetery? Certainly. Probably the most recognized person is Carlos Gardel, but several other tango legends keep him company like Tita Merello & Celedonio Flores. Juan Domingo Perón was once buried there as well, his hands removed with a saw & stolen, but since 2006 he rests in relative peace in his former estate in San Vicente. Perón’s rival while in exile, Augusto Vandor, is easily visible from the entrance as is aviator Jorge Newbery. Popular saints like Hermanita Irma, sporting a chihuahua, & Madre María receive thousands of visitors each year. The Roverano family even left Recoleta Cemetery & moved the family plot to Chacarita.

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires, Carlos Gardel

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires, Celedonio Flores

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires, Augusto Vandor

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires, Jorge Newbery

Cementerio de la Chacarita, Buenos Aires

The best part about Chacarita is that there is literally something to discover around every corner. Unfortunately there is no blog about the cemetery… enough material certainly exists. But a webpage maintained by Hernán Santiago Vizzari does a nice job of presenting Chacarita Cemetery’s history & unique character (Spanish only).

Some content originally published as a series of several posts in June 2008 on an older version of my blog, Line of Sight.

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Other Buenos Aires cemeteries: Cementerio del Sur • Chacarita • San José de Flores • Cementerio de los Disidentes • Cementerio Británico • Cementerio Alemán

Posted in Historia | 5 responses »
437. cementerio del sur
02 Oct 2011

Cementerio del Sur, Buenos Aires, map

With the foundation of Recoleta Cemetery in 1822, Buenos Aires obtained its first public cemetery. But as decades passed & population increased, the need for another cemetery became apparent. Local leaders debated its size & location throughout most of the 1860s. One big complication stemmed from the fact that the city’s limits restricted expansion & further development. In 1867, Buenos Aires acquired land from San José de Flores to the west, extending the city to the current streets of Boedo/Sáenz. In December that same year, the Cementerio del Sur (also referred to as the Cementerio del Sud) opened to receive a number of cholera epidemic victims.

Land purchased by the city government—the equivalent of one modern city block—previously formed part of the Carlos Escalada estate. It had been acquired by José Antonio de Escalada… father of San Martín’s wife, Remedios de Escalada. Although no definitive proof exists, legend claims that she passed away on this very spot in 1823.

Cementerio del Sur, Parque Patricios, Buenos Aires

The Cementerio del Sur only remained in operation for four years, closing definitively in 1871. A yellow fever epidemic swept through Buenos Aires that year & killed an estimated 14,000 people—10% of the city’s population—in the span of a few months. The Cementerio del Sur could not receive such a large number of burials & prompted the opening of a much larger cemetery to the west of the city: Chacarita.

Just after the epidemic, celebrated Uruguayan artist Juan Manuel Blanes painted a famous work depicting the horror of the times. His painting shows a baby clutching the breast of its dead mother, a victim of the epidemic, while city health officials inspect the scene. On display in the Teatro Colón, it immediately struck a chord with all porteños.

Juan Manuel Blanes, fiebre amarilla

Although not receiving new burials, the Cementerio del Sur continued to remain open so family members could visit their deceased loved ones. But the city government failed to maintain the site. In 1889 a monument which can still be seen today was erected to commemorate those who had died during the yellow fever epidemic & includes a replica of the Blanes painting:

Cementerio del Sur, Parque Patricios, Buenos Aires

Cementerio del Sur, Parque Patricios, Buenos Aires

In the 1890s, the entrance gate was removed when this area was reassigned to become a public park. A small number of exhumations took place, but most of the 18,000 people buried in the Cementerio del Sur remain underground to this day. Currently known as Parque Ameghino in the neighborhood of Parque Patricios, it is filled with jacarandá trees & is often used by dogwalkers… probably unaware of an important part of the city’s history beneath them.

For a detailed account of the cemetery’s history, more information can be found in an article researched & published by Luis O. Cortese (Spanish only).

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Other Buenos Aires cemeteries: Cementerio del Sur • Chacarita • San José de Flores • Cementerio de los Disidentes • Cementerio Británico • Cementerio Alemán

Posted in Historia | 3 responses »
436. general enrique mosconi
25 Sep 2011

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, General Enrique Mosconi

Born in Buenos Aires in 1877, Enrique Mosconi spent a couple of years during childhood in Europe but his family eventually returned to Argentina. After finishing elementary school, Mosconi enrolled in the national military academy & graduated at the age of 17. Typical of the era, the military was becoming more professional & Mosconi decided to study in civil engineering. Graduating in 1903, he was sent to learn about energy & communications in Europe & brought the best technology back to Argentina.

In spite of his early contributions, Mosconi would be most remembered for his next assignment beginning in 1922: General Director of Yacimientos Petrolíferos Fiscales (YPF)… Argentina’s state-run petroleum company. Although not an expert in the field at first, Mosconi did his best to improve working conditions in Comodoro Rivadavia where the first discoveries had been made in 1907. Becoming highly influential & respected, Mosconi had the ear of President Marcelo T. de Alvear & usually received anything he requested. As a result, YPF grew as a company & demonstrated that Argentines had the capability to manage every aspect of the petroleum industry… from perforation to refinement.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Enrique Mosconi

Early during his gestion, conflicts rose between Mosconi & companies such as Standard Oil & Royal Dutch Shell. He was determined to keep Argentine oil out of the hands of foreign trusts. Mosconi traveled to many countries in Latin America, where several state-run companies similar to YPF eventually formed, much to his credit. One plaque reminds visitors of Mosconi’s defiance:

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Enrique Mosconi

A few days after the military coup which ousted President Hipólito Yrigoyen in 1930, Mosconi resigned from YPF. Several key government positions were filled with people friendly to foreign oil trusts, & some historians think the coup could have been partially supported by Mosconi’s enemies. Perhaps because of this, Mosconi disappeared from the scene. Despite a stroke which left him partially paralyzed, he traveled extensively & wrote influential books about the petroleum industry, winning many awards abroad for his ideas.

Mosconi passed away in 1940 while living with his older sisters & had only a few pesos to his name. His crypt is a wonderful monument to mid-20th century art, built with YPF funds. Although Mosconi may not have increased production to the extent he projected, he took a marginally run company & made it a source of national pride. No doubt Mosconi would have been horrified if he could have seen into the future when YPF was purchased for U$S 15 billion in 1999 by the Spanish company Repsol.

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires, Enrique Mosconi

Posted in Negocios, Militares | No responses »
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Recoleta Cemetery is open 365 days per year from 07:00 to 18:00. Admission is free.

El Cementerio de la Recoleta abre los 365 días del año desde las 07:00 a las 18:00, con entrada libre y gratuita.

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